The Painting of a Ship  E-mail
Written by Aaron Dickey   
Tuesday, 29 April 2008 19:00
mars01.jpgWell, I know it has been some time since I last posted an update. Well things have been busy these days. I've also been taking a break from 40k miniatures to quickly paint up a Battlefleet Gothic fleet. I'm down to the last three ships and the main 2500 point chunk will be complete. However just saying whats happening isn't exactly the whole reason I'm posting here. I was asked for a tutorial on how I painted up the cruisers for the fleet. Since that will be a relatively lengthy post I've decided to actually use the "read more" feature of my site. So without further ado, please click "read more" for the actual tutorial.


Ok here is how I paint my Imperial Cruisers for BFG. This is a relatively straightforward process but it requires quite a few paints. You can probably substitute paints for similar colors or completely different ones if you want to make your own scheme.

Phase one: The Hull
tut01.jpgFor the first segment you will need the following paints: Codex Gray, Skull White, Scorched Brown, Dark Flesh, Brown Ink, Graveyard Earth, Vomit Brown.

Start off by base coating the model with Chaos Black paint, I personally leave the bridge and engines off to make them easier to paint later. After you are done touch up the base coat with any areas that you missed with the spray paint. It should look something like the photo to the left.

tut02.jpgFollowing this do a heavy dry brush of Codex Gray to start the undertones of the vessel. Follow this up with a lighter dry brush of Skull White to complete the undertones. This part isn't that complicated, but you should have something that looks similar to the photo at right. This goes pretty quickly and you can probably paint it all up in less than an hour. Once that has been completed, we will begin the washes.

Take Scorched Brown and make a very thin wash to put on the model. when you are ready tut03.jpg slosh it all over the model and then rinse out your brush to collect the excess that collects on the keel fin. You can reapply this to the model or leave it as is. Once this has had time to nearly dry, take Dark Flesh and make another wash in the same way as with the Scorched Brown you just applied and apply this on the model in the same way and collect the excess that collects on the fin again. It should look something like the photo to the left. Wait for this wash to partially dry and apply the thinned out Brown Ink.

tut04.jpgThis is where things get tricky. Wait for the washes to nearly dry and then dry brush on more codex gray. This will mix with the nearly dry wash and lighten up the edges if you apply it right. Since the wash isn't quite dry it will blend almost perfectly making for a smooth transition from the darks to the lights on the ship. This will look slightly pinkish when you do it but don't worry, it will dry differently; somewhat closer to the picture at left. Once this has been applied immediately dry brush a tut05.jpg light layer of Graveyard Earth. It should go on smoothly and start changing the overall tone of the model from dark brown to a bit lighter color to get something like the photo at right.. Follow this up with a light dry brush of Vomit Brown to finish the highlights. Only do this on the flat plains and upper layers. This will complete the hull base coloring. At this point you can paint on windows using skull white if you like, though I personally only do this with the bridge segment. Once you have finished this go ahead and glue on the bridge piece. This completes phase one.

Phase Two: The Prow
tut06.jpgThe prow is relatively straightforward and only requires three colors: Dark Flesh, Blood Red, and Vomit Brown. To start with, coat the segments between the raised panel lines in several layers of Dark Flesh to get a solid coat. Be careful not to get any paint inside of the torpedo tubes or on any part of the hull outside of the prow. Once this is complete, take a very small amount of Blood Red and blend it into the upper edges of the prow panels and aquilla wings. The result of this should look tut07.jpg take several attempts to get right. I tend to dip just the brush in blood red and then touch the water cup to thin it. Then apply a thin line at the top of the panel and use a different brush to like the image at left. This is a complicated process that might pull in the thin paint where I want it. It might take several coats but this the under tones to the prow. After completing this, do the same with Vomit Brown but be careful not to completely cover up the blood red you just blended in. The final result should look like the picture at right. With this done you are ready to move to phase three.

Phase Three: Metals
There isn't alot to say here, but the paints required are Boltgun Metal, Tin Bitz, Dwarf Bronze, Brown Ink, and Black Ink. Basically I dry brush the engines with boltgun and then blend in Tin Bitz on ends to show heat discoloration. I'll then go in and pick out piping and other bits like the prow ram and weapons battery cannons to paint in Boltgun. Once you have finished with the Boltgun, you can go ahead and glue on the engines. Next, using Dwarf Bronze, pick out details like the trim for weapons batteries, lance batteries, and prow aquilla and raised panel lines. Be careful painting these since a slip here will be very difficult to repair. Once you finish with these things, thin out Black Ink and slather it over all of the parts painted in Boltgun. Do the same with Brown Ink on the Bronze parts. You may have to make a stronger wash of ink to pick out depth on details like the studs on lance and weapons batteries. Once this is complete you are nearly finished with the model and are ready for Phase Four.

Phase Four: Turrets
These are very simple. You need Dark Flesh, Vomit Brown, Boltgun Metal, and Black Ink. Once the black base coat has been applied, paint the turret housing in Dark Flesh. Dry brush Vomit Brown to pick out details and highlight the turret. Finish by carefully dry brushing and painting the gun barrels in Boltgun Metal. Once finished, apply a little Black Ink over the barrels to pick out details and add depth. After these dry, you can glue them in place and the model should look something like the first post in this tutorial.


blog comments powered by Disqus